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From: tanvir hossain [mailto:babutanvirc@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2018 01:03:51 AM
To: electrolax11.tanvir@blogger.com
Subject:
From: tanvir hossain
Hi electrolax11
http://piotrkurylo.com/chemistry.php?busy=eg9hw9rmghvf9x4
tanvir hossain
babutanvir@yahoo.com
http://piotrkurylo.com/chemistry.php?busy=eg9hw9rmghvf9x4
tanvir hossain
babutanvir@yahoo.com
Basic Pigeon Care for more info click inside
Basic Pigeon Care
Buff Bar YH Oriental Roller
ALL pigeons, regardless of breed, have certain needs. These include food, water, and shelter. The type of shelter would depend on your local environmental conditions. Someone who lives in Alaska or northern Canada is going to need a different loft (coop) arrangement than is someone who lives in Hawaii or southern California. Someone who breeds Runts (Romans), which are the largest of all domestic pigeons, weighing in at up to 3 lbs (1.5 kg) will need more space per bird and larger nest boxes than will a breeder, who is raising Figuritas, which weigh about 6 oz. (160 g.). If you have a heavily muffed (feather-footed) breed, you will need different perching arrangements than you would if you raised a clean-legged breed.
Let's start with food first. Pigeons are grain eaters. They swallow seeds whole, store them in their crops, and crush them in their gizzards with small stones, which they have also swallowed. The choice of grains that you feed your birds will depend on your location. In Asian countries, fanciers feed rice as a good part of the diet. In western countries, fanciers usually use wheat and milo to form the bulk of the ration. The birds don't care. They just need a mixed grain ration with a basic 12-15% protein. During breeding season, this protein percentage can safely be increased to 18-20% so that the young will grow well and feather quickly. Most areas have feed suppliers that have spent many years perfecting various mixes for pigeons and it is advisable to avail yourself of their expertise and buy from them rather than trying to mix your own ration, especially at the beginning of your pigeon breeding. There are also some excellent pigeon pellets on the market. These pellets are made with grain as well as with fish or other animal meals. These additional ingredients provide necessary B vitamins to the birds. However, until the birds get used to the pellets, which are not shaped anything like a natural food, they may not eat them very well. Once they learn to handle them, however, they have no problems swallowing them. Birds fed on pellets do tend sometimes to have looser and, sometimes, smellier droppings. Various pellet formulations produce various results. I can state that youngsters reared on at least a partial pellet diet seem to grow faster and feather better than those on a straight grain diet. This may be because of the protein differences.
If you are feeding your birds on mixed grain mixes, you must also provide pigeon grit for them. This grit is a mixture of oyster shell, minerals, salts, stones and charcoal which they used to process their food. Most manufacturers of pellets suggest that you do not feed grit with pellets since everything is included.
Water: Pigeons MUST have water every day and it must be fresh . Pigeons drink immediately after eating and then usually take a second drink, at least, about a half hour to an hour after the first. During hot, dry spells, they drink more than during cold, wet ones -- as do we. They will drink much more water when pellet fed than they will drink when grain fed. When they are feeding young, they drink often since they will then go to the young and pump them full of feed and water. Water should be supplied in such a way that the birds can not foul it with their droppings. There are literally dozens of different watering devices available on the market. If you only have a few birds, the best ones are probably the gravity fed fountains which hold about a gallon (3.6 L). You simply fill the fountain and invert it into his holder, which has holes cut into it in such a way that the pigeon can drink. If you have young birds or birds new to your loft and your arrangements, you may have to dip the bird's beak into the water once or twice until it knows where to find it. Pigeons drink by sucking up the water, not by dipping their beaks and lifting their heads to let the water run down their throat like chickens do. Water should be changed every day! If it gets dirty, change it as soon as you see it to be so. Dirty water is one of the leading causes of disease.
Housing : As I indicated above, housing is more a function of location than anything else. However, there are some absolutes. Whatever form you choose for housing your birds, it must be secure. Cats, dogs, and aerial or nocturnal predators must be excluded. Pigeons need as much air flow as possible through the loft -- NOT drafts -- but airflow. The more airflow the healthier the birds - and the breeder. The airflow will help to remove feather dust and it will keep the birds in much better shape. Housing should not be crowded. That means -- DON'T CRAM BIRDS INTO IT. There is always an urge to keep just that "1" more pair. A rough estimate is that each bird should have about 1 cubic yard of airspace, though this can be modified if you have much airflow through the loft. I am not going to discuss whether the front should be open or closed. However, at least, three sides should be closed and, if you have an open side, it should face away from any prevailing storm winds. Pigeons can handle cold if they are fed extra corn (maize) or other fat in their ration, but they cannot tolerate wetness. Wet loft interiors usually lead to coccidiossis, an intestinal bacterial infection, and other diseases. Loft interiors should always be bone dry.
Perches should be designed with the particular breed of bird in mind. Many homer or roller breeders use regular box perches, while many fancy pigeon breeders of such birds as the Trumpeters and Wing Pigeons, which have large, heavy muffs, use a round perch held away from the wall by an angled arm. Other breeders use a "V" perch. Basically, that's two pieces of wood put together with a rounded top for the bird's comfort and hung in the loft like an upside-down V. PIGEONS DO NOT LIKE ROUND PERCHES. They will sit on them if nothing else is available, but they prefer flat ones. Their ancestors dwelt on cliff sides and were not tree perchers and nesters. If you're not handy with tools, you can buy perches already made from many of the pigeon supply companies.
Nesting arrangements: Pigeons should have a cup-shaped area to nest in. This helps to keep the eggs from rolling out under the parents and getting cold. Most breeders provide the birds with either paper mache nesting bowls or wood, ceramic, or plastic ones. There is one very important fact to remember if you use the ceramic or plastic and that is they don't breathe and they may chill babies that come into direct contact with them. There are plastic bowls specially designed now with air vents in the bottom and you can also buy pads to add to the nest for the birds. I have easy access to long needled pines so I use those pine needles and the birds love them. They will use various materials to nest with, straw is not a particularly good choice since it may harbor bugs. I, personally, hate sawdust (it gets into the babies eyes and causes problems) and wood shavings tend to blow everywhere. They also don't provide enough traction for the babies and you sometimes get spraddle legged youngsters. If you are going to use shavings, I suggest you add a bottom layer of grit or small gravel to the bowl (about an inch or two) (2.5 - 5 cm) before adding the shavings. Sand usually doesn't work too well and again you often wind up with spraddle legged youngsters.
Pigeons usually go to nest again when the first round of youngsters is about 15-20 days old. Your nesting arrangements should be designed to allow the parents enough room to have a second nest without their having to evict the first round. A classic design for roller sized birds is to have a box-like arrangement, for example, something 2 ft x 1.5 ft. x 1.5 ft. (0.61 m x 0. 5m x 0.5m) with a partial divider in the middle. This divider is attached to the back wall and comes about half way forward. This allows you to put a nest bowl on each side of it and allows the parents to claim that one box, A good thing to do right at the beginning is to make sure you have some way of closing each nestbox if it's presently unoccupied. This will prevent one male from taking control of every empty box and causing severe disruption if you have to add a new pair to the loft.
Pigeons usually lay two eggs, though young hens and old hens may lay only one. The first egg is laid about 4 p.m. and the second is laid two days after the first. Both parents incubate the nest, the male sits during the day from about 10 a.m. till about 5 p.m. and the hen sits the rest of the time. Incubation takes just about 18 days from the laying of the second egg. Depending on ambient temperature, however, this may vary by a day or so either way.
HANDLING PIGEONS One of the things that long time fanciers forget to tell new pigeon fanciers is HOW to handle the birds. There is an accepted way that works better than others, and it works to prevent the bird from accidentally escaping or being injured.
It's done this way: (I am going to describe everything for a right-handed person. If you're left handed, simply reverse.) 1. Take your right hand and turn it palm up. 2. Open the first and second fingers of your right hand like they were a pair of scissors. 3. Slide your right hand, palm up and with the first and second fingers open, under the bird its left side. Slide the birds legs between your open first and second finger and close them down to comfortably catch the legs. 4. The bird is now in your palm and facing you. Slide your right thumb up and over the bird's wings to hold him secure as you pull your right arm into toward yourself with the bird's head near your chest. 5. Use your left hand to help keep the bird in place. 6. This should provide a secure and comfortable hold for you AND the pigeon.
There is also a second reason for this hold, not only is it secure, but by holding the bird this way, if it decides to defecate (go ca-ca), it doesn't land in your palm.
Obviously, this works better with birds that your hands can comfortably hold. NEVER, EVER hold a pigeon by both its wings held up over its back. This borders on outright cruelty. It's like if I let you hang from your arms this way.
CHECKING EGGS IN THE NEST: There is a technique to this. Never come from the top down onto the parent in the nest. You may well crush the egg. Instead, come from underneath and up. MAKE SURE THE FRONT OF YOUR HAND is toward the parent once you have the egg or are returning it to the nest. Reason for this is that some pigeons will wing slap you to protect their nest. If the egg is forward, you can imagine what will happen when the parent's wing butt connects with it. And don't kid yourself, it happens more often than you think. Also, remember, while pigeons aren't particularly aggressive, a wing slap delivered by an animal that can fly 600 miles in a day (in the case of racing homers) can sting if it gets you so don't drop the egg either. There are also docile pigeons which will let you get the eggs with no problems at all, and these are the birds that I tend to breed from in my own loft since this docility is genetic.
HATCHING EGGS: This is one time where it really is better to leave well enough alone! Pigeons have been hatching for a few million years and do just fine without us. However, if you do want to see the egg, make sure that you ALWAYS return it to the nest with the pipped (chipping) side upright. BE VERY CAREFUL if you handle a hatching egg. The shell is extremely weak at this point since most of the minerals have been withdrawn from it to help build the embryo's skeleton. I've picked up eggs and been left with a bloody mess and a dying youngster in my hand because I wasn't careful.
HANDLING BABIES IN THE NEST 1 - You're better off if you don't bother the babies for the first few days at least.
Having said that - I know you're not going to pay any attention to me at all about it. Heck, half the time I don't even pay attention to that.
1. If you DO decide to peek at just hatched babies, don't do it for to long. You don't want them chilled.
2. If you take one out of the nest for a moment, make sure that when you put it back in that you make sure it's upright. They can usually right themselves, but why make things difficult for them?
OLDER BABIES Pretty much handle them the way you handle adults, see first posting above.
Breeder stuff: This part is so important, I'm repeating it again in case someone just jumps to this section. Every knowledgeable fancier tells every beginner to not bother the parent birds once they have laid. "Try to avoid disturbing them." That's what we say. That's not exactly what we do, and we know it's not what you're going to do. Fact is, we all check out the eggs and nest. Waiting to see what's going to happen is part of the excitement of breeding pigeons. However, try not to do it every day. I usually check the eggs at about 5-7 days into the incubation cycle to see if they are fertile. You can determine that by shining a flashlight (torch) through them and checking to see if you can spot a darkened area or spiderweb-like pattern. I usually do this by carefully taking each egg from the nest, making a circle with my thumb and forefinger and holding the egg there, then shining the flashlight from the backside of the egg. If you can see this "spiderweb" of blood vessels, then put the egg back into the nest. There is a trick to removing and replacing the eggs. Cup the eggs in your hand so that if the bird on the nest slaps at you with its wing in an attempt to defend its nest that it won't strike the egg and break it. Don't think it doesn't happen, it does. If you absolutely must check the eggs during the 17-18th day of incubation (hatching) be extremely careful. The shell is at its thinnest then since the minerals in it have been utilized for the developing embryo. If the egg has already begun to pip (shows small cracks in the shell where the embryo is pushing up against it), make sure that you place the egg back into the nest with those pips uppermost and not turned down. This is one time when it really would be better if you just left the eggs alone. Some eggs won't hatch. In most cases those happen because the youngster is weak. Don't worry about it unless it happens frequently, then it's a sign that your flock may be infected with Salmonella or be vitamin deficient. If the young don't hatch, the pigeons will lay again in about ten days and begin another incubation cycle.
Baby Birds: Once the babies hatch, the parents will begin to feed them a special secretion from their crop called pigeon milk. At about ten day or so, the pigeon milk begins to be supplemented with the normal grain diet and by about twenty days, the babies are being fed almost exclusively on the standard grain/pellet mix. If you are feeding grain, the parents MUST have fresh grit in front of them each day. The grit has salt and minerals they need for the youngsters as well as the oyster shell.
If you are going to seamless band (ring) your babies, you can do this from about six-ten days after hatching, depending on the breed. My racing homers need to be banded by about day seven or they've grown so large it is hard to get the band on to their leg. My Color Pigeons, on the other hand, need not be banded before eleven days old. In fact, if I do it earlier, the band often falls off.
The one thing essential about banding is this: MAKE SURE NONE OF THE TOES ARE STILL UNDER THE BAND. This will only create agony for the youngster. A band is slipped on by holding the first three toes together and sliding the band up onto the foot. Pull the band farther up and gently work the rear toe through the band and free. Now the band is up on the leg (we call it the leg, but it's actually the top of the foot.) Gently replace the youngster into the nest and you're done. One little trick to make life easier for you. When you band, place the band on upside down. That is, the numbers would look upside down if you were looking at the standing bird. The reason for this is that when you hold the bird in your hand, the numbers are now right-side up and easy to read. No one cares which leg you band on. Make it convenient for yourself. I'm right-handed so I tend to band on the right leg since that's the one closest to me when I handle the bird. If you're left handed band the left leg. Again, no one cares.
Weaning: Young pigeons wean at about 28-35 days. Some breeders have special weaning pens and remove their youngsters at 22-25 days, but I wouldn't recommend this for beginners. There are too many things that can go wrong and if you don't know how to fix it immediately, you could lose them. While the hen is on the nest with the second round, the male is feeding the older youngsters. They will often chase after him squealing and screaming to be fed. As they get up in age, he will be less and less willing to feed them and hunger forces them to begin looking about the loft for food. If you can provide a separate section for the youngsters at this stage, it is much preferable to do so. They won't be attacked and harrassed by older birds that way and will quickly find the food and water. If you see a bird hunched up with its eyes closed (and it's not just sleeping) there is a good chance it hasn't yet found the water. Take it and dip its beak into the water and it will likely drink deeply. Once it does, it almost never needs help finding water again. Food for just weaned youngsters should be rich in protein. Peas are good for this.
Once the babies are fully weaned, you should have no real problems with them. I'm assuming there is no disease present. They will grow and begin their wing molt at about 45-50 days old. At about six months, they are sexually mature, but most don't let them breed until they're at least a year old to allow them time to fully mature.
Disease: Pigeons are naturally hardy animals. Even so, every fancier should have some basic medications on hand. One for canker (trichomoniasis). One for coccidiossis. One for Salmonella.
For canker, Ridzol and metronidazole are the most readily available. Amprolium (Amprol) is a good one for coccidiossis, and Ampicillan is a good first use for Salmonella. Baytril is the best presently, but it is extremely expensive.
PMV 1 (Paramyxovirus 1). This disease is deadly, to pigeons and doves only. It came to North America from Europe which got it from the Middle East in the mid-1970's. There are vaccines that are readily available to use for it, but you must vaccinate before the birds are exposed to the virus. The instructions on how to vaccinate are in the boxes of vaccine. (It's very simple and I've had 12 years old vaccinate hundreds of birds with no problems) Even if you use no other medications of any sort, it has become practically essential to vaccinate for PMV 1.
Parasites: Lice and mites can infest the birds. There are many good and safe insecticides available to use on them. You can buy them at any pigeon supply company or even at most garden shops. 5% Sevin dust is useful as are most of the Pyrethrin based insecticides. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. I have had to answer tearful calls from people who have accidentally killed their pets because they sprayed them with some house product insecticide that was never designed to be used on animals.
If you're worried about intestinal parasites, there are many good wormers on the market. DO NOT use wormers designed for chickens. While some are safe, some are lethal to pigeons. Until you know what's what, always use a wormer that you get from a pigeon supply company.
Further information:
American Racing Pigeon Club - they have a free beginner's booklet available.
National Pigeon Asso. U.S. - they don't have a booklet, but you can contact specialty pigeon breed clubs
The best care and treatement for our fancy pigeons! for more info click inside
The best care and treatement for our fancy pigeons!
Proper daily care with the best nutrition is wanted if you want to be successful in the pigeon world. Proper nutrition and care result in strong and vital animals. It prevents us from a lot of diseases and problems.
Not properly feeding is one of the biggest mistakes that breeders can make. The secret of many top breeders often lies in how they feed their animals. As a reputable breeder, I would like to share you my experiences and views on nutrition and care.
Today, it’s possible to choose through a variety of brands and numerous types of food. Fortunately most brands have separate production lines designed fancy pigeons.
In the long search for the right food, I ended up with NATURAL of Belgium. In former times, I learned NATURAL during my contacts with many racing pigeon fanciers. Remember that the Belgian racing pigeon is well known over the whole world. It’s deep in my mind, that when I met them, they were always proud of their products of NATURAL. They automatically putted their thumbs upwards.
It’s a fact that the fancy pigeon breeders can still learn much from racing pigeon breeders. Remember that many things that are good for racing pigeons are in most cases also good for our fancy pigeons. It is also true that many breeds of fancy pigeons (e.g. pouters) in terms of nutrition are a lot more demanding then racing pigeons.
NATURAL is deeply involved with the racing pigeon sport. In addition to producing great food and products, NATURAL also exploited "the breeding station".
Here, NATURAL successfully breeds thousands of young racing pigeons that are sold at friendly prices around the world. All visitors of this breeding station remark easily the fact that all pigeons have an outstanding condition and health. This can according to experts only be achieved by giving the appropriate nutrition and care. This proofs the effect and quality of NATURAL and its products.
In the breeding station, there are also fancy pigeons housed. Thanks to their presence NATURAL could design three types of feeders for fancy pigeons with extra quality. These feeders have in common that they exists of only small grains, legumes (corn, peas, etc) and seeds are provided. That’s why pigeons are very happy to eat it. They are the ideal feeders to provide to pouters. Croppers and pouters can much more easily feed the smaller grains to their young pigeons!
“Diet for Breeding Racing Pigeons” for more info click inside
Proteins happen to be among the most significant factors when it comes to preparing a balanced feed mix for racing pigeons – especially when you are breeding them. Protein is a crucial component of their feed in the breeding season, since it’ll help prepare your racing pigeons for the egg hatching, incubation, and infant feeding and so on. Simply put, proteins utilized for the construction or repair of the pigeons’ tissues are very important.Proteins are useful when it comes to preparing racing pigeons for the subsequent breeding season.
They provide for better fertility. These nutrients are also helpful for hatching and ensure better growth and development of the adolescents. For instance, studies in the US revealed that an 18% protein ration allows for optimal nourishment provided that soybeans or fish are also utilized as crucial protein sources. This has eventually provided for major developments in the lifecycle of pigeons as mentioned above. You might not observe any improvement if the diet of your pigeons consists of more than 18 protein. It appears that diets comprising of 18% protein are perfect when it comes to breeding racing pigeons.
Sugar is among the most crucial carbohydrates for birds and animals as well as for humans. It is known as glucose or dextrose. Starch components like grain consist of quite a few glucose units that are linked together in a complex chemical configuration. When the corn gets ground within the bird’s gizzard and the resultant paste goes into the intestine, the starch is broken down (i.e. metabolized) into individual glucose units. These are then absorbed via the intestinal wall right into the circulating blood. They are later delivered to the liver. There are a lot of glucose units, which are involved in a chemical structure. This structure differs a lot from starch and these are known to be glycogen.
The diet of a racing pigeon has come to its current contents and rules through some historic evolutions over time. At least that is what the outcomes of recent research have revealed. The particular nutritional requirements for the best possible breeding as well as racing performance among racing pigeons are important. The origin of the diet we follow these days dates back to the early 1960s. A diet comprising of peas and wheat is sufficient, though. A bird’s diet of just seeds won’t provide the essential nutrition, even with the introduction of a wide variety of fresh grains. It is important to optimize your birds’ nutrition with supplementation.
Every fancier usually has the basic know-how relating to nutrition for their birds. High quality nutrition can certainly enhance the performance of racing pigeons, but it is also essential for breeding and for raising healthy offspring. Inadequate nutrition can result in miserably poor health of the racing pigeons. It could also result into lower defense against diseases. Poorly fed pigeons suffer compromised growth and from prolonged recovery from physical exhaustion and illness.
This can also result into decreased reproductive performance. The base of a reasonable diet for racing pigeons includes seeds. They provide the racing pigeons with protein, essential carbohydrates and most importantly – fat. However, seeds alone can’t fulfill the dietary needs of the racing pigeon. Remember that even with lots of grains added to the diet other nutrients must be added to the mix for optimum health.
Seeds are lacking some of the crucial nutrients like Vitamin B12, Vitamin A, Riboflavin, Niacin, Folic acid, Vitamin K, Vitamin E and a wide range of amino acids like Lysine, Methionine, Tryptophane. They also lack minerals like Calcium, Manganese, Sodium, Copper, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.
Seeds are lacking some of the crucial nutrients like Vitamin B12, Vitamin A, Riboflavin, Niacin, Folic acid, Vitamin K, Vitamin E and a wide range of amino acids like Lysine, Methionine, Tryptophane. They also lack minerals like Calcium, Manganese, Sodium, Copper, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.
The well-informed fanciers are well aware of the essential nutritional supplementation and can proceed with care, shunning those “backyard potions” which provide zero benefit – especially considering that the racing pigeons ready to breed must produce strong offspring. When supplementing, make sure that these supplements are in fact digestible. They have to be offered in a form which the pigeon can assimilate. There is yet another important consideration – palatability. It does not pay at all to add fetid tasting food even if it has healthy ingredients. At all times, you need to ensure that the feed is absolutely delicious, so that the pigeon races back home to eat it.
Read About War pigeons
Homing pigeons were used extensively during World War I. In 1914 during the First Battle of the Marne, the French army advanced 72 pigeon lofts with the troops.The US Army Signal Corps used 600 pigeons in France alone.
One of their homing pigeons, a Black Check cock named Cher Ami, was awarded the French "Croix de Guerre with Palm" for heroic service delivering 12 important messages during the Battle of Verdun. On his final mission in October 1918, he delivered a message despite having been shot through the breast or wing. The crucial message, found in the capsule hanging from a ligament of his shattered leg, saved about 200 US soldiers of the 77th Infantry Division's "Lost Battalion".[citation needed]
World War II and later
The UK maintained the Air Ministry Pigeon Section during World War II and for a while thereafter. A Pigeon Policy Committee made decisions about the uses of pigeons in military contexts. The head of the section, Lea Rayner, reported in 1945 that pigeons could be trained to deliver small explosives or bioweapons to precise targets. The ideas were not taken up by the committee, and in 1948 the UK military stated that pigeons were of no further use. However, the UK security service MI5 was still concerned about the use of pigeons by enemy forces. Until 1950, they arranged for 100 birds to be maintained by a civilian pigeon fancier in order to prepare countermeasures.
Rescuing A baby pigeon
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The
reason that you seldom see baby pigeons is that they do not leave the
nest until they look like very much like adults. So if you recognize it
as a baby it probably needs your help.
Pigeons
make devoted parents but if a baby pigeon is taken from the nest or
falls from the nest before it is fully fledged its parents will not
recognize it and won't feed it.
A
baby pigeon will look a bit like a duckling. It has a long flat beak,
yellow fuzzy hair, fleshy nose wattles , a short tail, no feathers under
its wings, big feet and short legs.
These pigeons are in early development. They do not leave the nest until they are 35 days old.
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This link will show you what a pigeon looks like as it grows up and help you determine how old your baby pigeon is.
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Budgie Care In Home
First things first, budgies are fun pets to keep. They are lively, intelligent and playful. They can learn to speak and do tricks. A budgie is sure to brighten up any home.
If you have ever had a budgerigar in your family then you will know just how rewarding it can be. They definitely develop their own personality. And it can be a lot of fun to play with them or watch them flap about the room.
Keeping one of these wonderful birds is a great way to teach children about responsibility and loyalty. They can also be a great comfort to isolated people like the elderly, who might get lonely without company.
Caring for your budgie is really very simple, it’s not surprising that so many people keep them as pets. Keeping your budgie fed and watered and keeping his cage clean doesn’t take more than a few minutes a day. It beats running around after a dog in the rain every day.
What’s more, budgies don’t take up a lot of space, and they don’t cost much money to look after. Seeing as they can bring so much happiness and are so easy to look after, they have to be the perfect pet.
So, What Are Budgies? And Where Do They Come From?
Budgies are a small bird from the parrot family. They are native to Australia where they live in large flocks, traveling to wherever they find food and water.
In the 1800s travelers caught the first caught budgies and brought them back to Europe. They were a big hit immediately, and a lot of people wanted one.
So people started laying nets at the budgies’ feeding grounds. The ones that survived being caught were brought back to civilization. All of the budgies for sale today are bred in captivity.
In the wild, the budgies’ natural coloring is green and yellow. Budgies born with different coloring get treated like ugly people in our society and don’t get to breed. But in captivity breeders keep color mutations alive.
The result, over 100 recognized color patterns around today. With so many different varieties around you can be sure to find one that you like.
Budgies In The Wild
In the Australian interior, the budgies live in grass lands that get very little rain. So they move around quite a lot to find food and water, as well as to avoid the heat. Unlike most other migratory birds, budgies don’t return to the same places every year.
Budgies in the wild flock to scrub grass as it is a great source of food when it is seeding. They like areas with eucalyptus trees as well, since they are an ideal place to nest.
Budgies do need to seek out sources of fresh water as well, but they don’t need very much. They get a lot of their water from food, and retain most of it.
I Hope You Read All Of That, There’ll Be A Test At The End...
nly joking, but enough of the history and wildlife lessons. The rest of the site will be about budgiecare, I promise. So if you have one of these beautiful birds, or even if you haven’t, have a look around.
Classifying Injuries inRacing Pigeons for more info click inside
Classifying Injuries inRacing Pigeons
This section covers injuries to birds. Unfortunately, it’s the nature of racing and training that our birds covering the distance that they do will incur injuries. We have to remember that we manage a stable of race animals and we have to consider many things, injuries being one of them. This is not intended to be the 101 on how to provide medical care for all injuries.
Some injuries are repairable, some are not. Some a bird can come back from and perform 100%, others they can not. Some will end a racing career but will allow for a bird to perform in the stockloft, some will not. We have to take these into consideration when we evaluate injuries.
Pigeonsare remarkable healers. It almost at times seems that they have been granted a special gift for being healed from major injuries. There have been birds that have come home with gun shot wounds or nearly mortal wounded by hawks. I have saved a few directly from the clutches of the hawk. The hawk flew away to come prey on my birds another day and the bird ended up surviving, always remarkably to my astonishment.
Read More http://www.pigeonracingpigeon.com/whats-new/classifying-injuries-in-racing-pigeons/
pigeon breeding for more info click inside
pigeonbreeding :
One of the essentials of success in squab’s production is good breeding stock. Pigeon breeds at 5-8 months of age laying two eggs each nesting, both the parents sharing the incubation till the egg hatch in 16-18 days. Good breeding stock usually will produce for 3 to 4 years. Culling is essential in building up a profitable flock of squab producers. Selection of pigeon can be done on the basis of good laying capacity, which produced good squab weight, livability and market quality. The first cross of two breed selected and the breed for squab production usually produces a very good market squab. Sexual maturity is attained at about 6 to 7 months of age when the pigeons begin to mate. Breeding season is usually long and may continue all the year round. In the prime life (3-6 years) pigeons produce about 5-8 squabs per year. Breeders need to be replaced after 4-5 years. Pigeons are usually reared in any water proof house that is easy to clean. The traditional pigeon shelters (devecotes) consist of columns of pigeon. Tower of mud, brick, stones or wood, which provides protection form predators are also popular for keeping these birds.
pigeon housing for more info click inside
Pigeon housing :
Pigeon houses are called as lofts. A Pigeon house should be planned to keep the pigeon comfortable. Plenty of ventilation is desirable and the house should face southern direction, which will provide fresh air, sunlight.
Pigeon farming for more info click inside
Pigeon farming :
Pigeons have a small head and a plump, compact body shape. Full breasted appearance is usually
attributed to their well developed pectoral muscles. Plumage is dense and soft. Sexes may be
distinguished by aggressive behavior, coarser appearance and selectively large size in case of
male. Mature birds may weight from about 0.5 to nearly 1 kg some large breeds may even weigh up to
1.4 kg. Pigeons are hardy birds, naturally pre-adapted to varied agro climatic conditions from temperate
and tropical zones. Pigeons have been raised for centuries on husbandry system that allow free-ranging
flights for obtaining food. They may often range over many square kilometers to locate seeds and edible
scraps. Crops act as an efficient storage organ for storage of food and their food intake is always
higher then allowed by their rate of digestion.
attributed to their well developed pectoral muscles. Plumage is dense and soft. Sexes may be
distinguished by aggressive behavior, coarser appearance and selectively large size in case of
male. Mature birds may weight from about 0.5 to nearly 1 kg some large breeds may even weigh up to
1.4 kg. Pigeons are hardy birds, naturally pre-adapted to varied agro climatic conditions from temperate
and tropical zones. Pigeons have been raised for centuries on husbandry system that allow free-ranging
flights for obtaining food. They may often range over many square kilometers to locate seeds and edible
scraps. Crops act as an efficient storage organ for storage of food and their food intake is always
higher then allowed by their rate of digestion.
From the end of the moult to the pairing; always be sensible for more info click inside
From the end of the moult to the pairing; always be sensible
In the 40 years that we have been involved in pigeon racing we have regularly experienced some new theories, each of which were said to be infallible. Nevertheless, each of these theories found their way to the paper basket, because they did not work out in practice.
A pigeon fancier who lives for his pigeons, who studies and investigates all suggested theories will be sceptical and prefers not to be influenced by new theories. Young, novice fanciers who like to skip stages on their way to success, because they want to be at the same level as the more experienced fanciers as quickly as possible, will have a different take on these theories. To reach their objective more quickly and with less effort, they tend to believe that success in pigeon racing is the result of a particular feature you have to be aware of, or a secret that needs to be discovered first. We would like to address these novice fanciers and all readers in general who are easily influenced by these new theories and we would like to warn them. That is why we give you the following example of someone who tried to take advantage of less experienced fanciers. We hope the following story will help to avoid such situations.
One day, a pigeon examiner came into a pigeon club headquarters in a neighbouring town. The pub owner had announced the event and a great number of fanciers from the area were enticed to the venue. It was a full house and the examiner had quite some success: he made a diagnosis and he gave some very positive reviews of the pigeons that were shown to him. “This is an excellent racing pigeon but he won’t be a good breeder. He will be good in races of up to 150 km only. This pigeon here can fly all distances but you should not keep any of the youngsters it breeds. This pigeon is bred from two yearlings.” He had an unshakeable belief in his own truth, which is why he believed that everything he said was true. Unfortunately for him it did not last long. All of a sudden there was an argument with one of the fanciers, who simply could not agree with the verdict of the examiner. The fancier had brought ten pigeons and the examiner was confident that one of these birds was not a good breeder. The owner of that pigeon was perplexed: that very pigeon was in fact the sire of four excellent pigeons, which the examiner believed to be four outstanding pigeons.
The examiner was a good talker and he did not want to admit his mistake. Eventually he said that it was the hen, and the hen alone who passes the qualities to the youngsters. That remark would prove to be fatal: the hen was also among the ten pigeons he had reviewed and this was his opinion about that hen: “A third category bird, only able to fly short distance races. In other words: nothing but a good meal.”
It was this joke that put him in a difficult position: it proved that his secret theory was of no value. Still, we do not want fanciers to lump all examiners (keurders in Dutch) together. We know several outstanding examiners who do a great job, not only for the fanciers but for pigeon fancying in general. Just to mention a few: Rene Genette and Omar De Keyzer both have a great knowledge of pigeons and they have proved their skills many times. Their proficiency makes them one of the top examiners in pigeon racing in Belgium. Obviously they do not work for free but they are worth every penny. There are several more examiners in Belgium who give valuable advice as well.
This story should make clear that there are people who try to take advantage of inexperienced and credulous fanciers. This is regrettable because they undermine the reputation of the examiners who deliver great work. These fraudulent people undermine the future of the younger generation. As we said, there are great examiners out there who know everything about the pigeon. They give you an honest opinion about your birds and they will not keep secrets. We cannot stress enough that there are no secrets or miracle methods to assess the racing or breeding quality of a pigeon. A good knowledge of pigeons is not the result of an accidental discovery or some sort of secret. There was a referendum (the results of which were published), which offers solid proof again. It is a lengthy study that is based on scientific research, new observations and examinations in pigeon racing. If we want to safeguard the future of our sport, which some are rather pessimistic about, we have to rely on several thousands of new fanciers to fill the empty spaces, of which the number increases every year. In other words: the majority of pigeon fanciers are part of the older generation.
So only the novices and the new starters are likely to fall victim to this kind of fraud. Some of these newcomers have only just found their way to pigeon racing when they come into contact with people who try to take advantage of them by selling stories. Many inexperienced fanciers follow their advice. When they notice that their approach is not successful they sometimes leave the sport disillusioned. This is only because they took the wrong path. That is why we think it is in the interest of our sport and its future to make clear to these newcomers that there are no secrets or magical means in pigeon racing, despite what some frauds want you to believe. The road to success is very difficult and complicated and these difficulties are what make our sport so interesting. As a fancier you learn to be patient, you learn to observe and to be strict in a way you would never imagine. It is important to remind the newcomers that our sport is more than any other sport an educational journey, which all fanciers go through. Many fanciers have learned important lessons while spending their time in the quietness of the pigeon loft. These experiences are much more valuable than any theory. If you want to succeed and keep succeeding you have to become a skilled fancier. To achieve this you need some indispensable knowledge that should be learned as soon as possible. This of course does not mean that only the older fanciers can become successful because they are more experienced.
This is far from the truth. If a younger fancier knows the same about pigeon fancying as an older fancier he will be likely to beat the older fancier, because he can put more energy into his hobby than the older fancier, who might not be making any improvements in his game anymore. In pigeon racing the future champions and the best teachers were once newcomers themselves. This should be encouraging for the young fanciers among us who are reading this article. The future of our sport cannot depend on champions on the wane. Instead we need to focus on new fanciers with a thorough knowledge who are acquainted with the difficulties of our sport. With a patient approach they can succeed as a fancier as well. These reflections force us once more to be aware of people who try to take advantage from newcomers. They try to convince others that they have the ultimate solution to become successful. Their aim is to make money and they do not care about our sport. We will continue to keep them away from our sport.
These frauds have a wide field of action because they are often supported by barkeepers or club owners as well, as they benefit from it too. The quacks are not very popular, that is why they do not come to the same towns very often. If the barkeepers want to make extra money they have to invite a new examiner every year. As a result the frauds have the opportunity to visit one town after the other throughout Belgium, to take advantage of credulous newcomers and the less gifted fanciers. We apologise once more for the good examiners out there who know their job and who will always give their honest opinion. Still, we should be aware of the deplorable people who do our sport a lot of damage to their own benefit. In the interest of our numerous readers, we will do everything we can to defend fanciers against these people. If we would hide the truth to win the favour of our readers and if we gave them false information they would no longer trust us either. We like to do research and we experiment regularly. We are on the lookout for innovations. We do not pretend to come up with new theories or truths and we will never give incorrect information. We have good intentions, contrary to the frauds we have been talking about. They want you to believe the opposite of what we say and they focus on certain features or peculiarities of a pigeon. They say all the rest is of secondary importance. On the other hand, pioneers are always useful and they are often undervalued. We should encourage pioneers as much as possible. That is why we have been following the research that was conducted by the late Prof. Capart, a good friend of ours, who wanted to learn more about the orientational skills of a pigeon. He inspired us to take a look at a published study of the wing from a different point of view, which was very interesting. At the time when this study came to our notice, it was considered very important and it was believed to over rule any other theory from the past. Eventually the new theory turned out to be incorrect. Voluntary researchers deserve our respect and sympathy: they come up with new discoveries and any responsible fancier will not take advantage from it until it has proved its value. The least we can say is that the majority of theories that were brought about in the last half of the century were premature. Theory alone has no value; it is the reality that counts. What is the use of drawing up long theories and rules about the eye of the pigeon, when the majority of the pigeons we have seen are an exception to those very same r
ules?
ules?
What is the use of emphasising that the length of a pigeon’s wing should be 25 or 26 cm? If we measure the wings of 25 of the best pigeons in Belgium we would only be able to conclude that each of these pigeons had a different wing length. We might as well conclude that the best pigeon of the group had in fact the shortest wings.
We could bring up other examples to make our point but the example we just mentioned should be enough for those willing to listen. Any theory will be useful only if it works out in practise. We should always be careful when it comes to new theories. If a theory proves to be wrong it will be known to the public sooner or later.
Imagine we had the opportunity to visit a large show, where only the very best pigeons are shown. Do you honestly believe that after we have examined each of the pigeons we would come up with a great discovery about the pigeons, a feature all of these pigeons have?
There are pigeons of all sizes and colours, some are small, some are big and some are medium sized. The tint of their eyes is so different that if a painter had to make paintings of them all, he would be obliged to use the whole range of colours available. Some are straight; others have a deep keel. If you weigh a pigeon when you measure the length of their wings you will find that there are many differences, both in length and in weight. The same applies to the size and shape of the muscles and the breastbone. We could go on and on. But what does it prove?
That the sportive value of a pigeon doesn't arise from one or other section of its individuality, but that it forms in its entirity a wonderful equilibrium, of which the perfection decides its class. The proof of what we have written down, was brought to us in 1952 by the judging in IVth show of the Belgium racing pigeon. This material proof, which we established after judging 25 of the best Belgium pigeons, put all exclusiveness aside and will stop all fanciers, even if hè is just an ordinary foncier, a champion or a chronicler, to be stubborn. We will assure our young readers, that study, practice and experience count.
It proves that the true qualities of a pigeon are not the result of one or other feature or characteristic; it is the result of the pigeon as a whole, where every aspect is in perfect harmony. We found evidence for our theory in 1952, when the pigeons of the IVth show of pigeon racing in Belgium were being examined. Twenty five of the best Belgian racing pigeons were examined. It illustrated that only a few privileged examiners were able to correctly assess the value of a pigeon. Only they will be able to give valuable comments about a bird. Some of these examiners will make 20 mistakes per 100 pigeons, some make 15 mistakes and the very best will only make 10 mistakes. Keep in mind that there is never one single correct assessment. We can prove this to anyone who wants to know. A pigeon can have the outer qualities of a top class pigeon although it is in fact a very average pigeon. Remember that even the best examiners can be wrong once in a while.
